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Ford F-150 Factory Radio Uninstall and New Radio Install
This post is more of a supplemental to the installation guide at Install Dr.com. The hope is that the pictures and some of the notes I took as I did the installation will make your radio install that much smoother.
The guide includes:
- Original radio removal
- Wiring new radio using a wiring harness
- Wiring diagram
- Basic steps to installing the new radio
When removing the dash panel I found it was easier to get my fingers under the panel at the bottom near the climate controls.
Removing Front Dash Panel
Front Dash Panel Off
You’ll notice that the dash panel is not completely removed. There is no way I want to mess with anything associated with the airbags in the truck. It seemed perfectly fine to let it hang there.
Passenger Side Airbag Connection
I didn’t want to pay for the tool used to remove the factory radio so I tried the do it yourself version using a clothes hanger.
Cutting Wire To Make Removal Tool
Bending Wire To Make Removal Tool
- The important thing is to keep the pieces of wire straight in the release holes
- I tried to mimic the factory keys, but I think I would have had more success with 4 individual pieces of wire
Below I removed part of the factory radio face to show how I was missing the release mechanisms with my home made removal tool.
Removing Factory Radio Face
Misaligned Removal Tool
For the new radio installation you will only use one of the factory harnesses. Just tuck the other one out of the way.
Factory Radio Wiring Harness
I always use a wiring harness when installing a radio.
- The one I used for the F-150 was a Metra 70-1771 wiring kit.
- I prefer to solder my connections instead of using bullet connectors. I’ve had trouble in the past with bad crimps on the bullets.
- Make sure to wrap your soldered connections with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing
- [Thanks to my little sister for the Home Depot gift card I used to buy the new soldering iron and solder. By the way, the soldering iron kit had enough solder with it to do the install.]
- I used the wiring guide on the wiring kit package and the one that came with the new radio.
- The wire colors were the same for both harnesses
Metra Wiring Harness and Installation Tools
Cut the packaging for your wiring harness. Seems like a simple thing, but I tore mine and ended up translating the Spanish side to do my install.
The new radio bracket should have mounting tabs that will hold it in the aftermarket dash installation kit.
- Make sure to use the tabs closest to the front
- The tabs have a wedge effect so make sure to push them in until they are tight
- I used a Metra 99-5804 Dash Kit
Removing New Radio Installation Bracket
Installing New Radio Mounting Bracket
My new radio has USB inputs on the front and back. To make the rear input accessible I ran a 7 foot USB extension cable down the driver’s side of the dash, and tucked it away. I plan on integrating that into the center console later.
Running USB Extension Cable
Running USB Extension Under Driver’s Side Dash
After connecting the wiring harness and USB port to the back of the new radio I secured the connections by
- Wrapping electrical tape around the USB extension connection
- Zip tying the factory wiring harness to the aftermarket wiring harness
Securing Wiring Harnesses With Zip Ties
The last snag I ran across was the screw holes on the dash kit lining up properly with the two top screw holes on the climate control assembly.
I used a heat source (otherwise known as a lighter) to warm the plastic just till it was malleable and aligned the screw holes.
Adjusting Dash Kit With Heat Source
I suggest making your adjustments outside of the vehicle and then try the fit. I didn’t make my adjustments this way, but I accept the consequences of my actions.
I can’t believe I even have to put this here, but don’t make yourself the end of a “you know you’re a redneck because” joke.
- DON’T catch your truck on fire because you kept your heat source on the dash kit plastic till it caught fire!
- ALWAYS take proper safety precautions even if it takes a little longer to do the task.
Then new radio looks and sounds great.
Finished Installation
Jeep Wrangler YJ Free Online Repair Guide
I’m about to install a Superlift 1.5″ lift kit, the word Superlift seems pretty funny next to 1.5″. I’ll of course be following the instructions in that came with the kit, but in my search for all things free online I found that AutoZone.com has a good free repair guide for my 1993 YJ Wrangler.
From what it looks like AutoZone has put pieces of the Chilton Repair Manuals – Chilton Jeep Wrangler/YJ Repair Manual 
Parts Diagram For Mazda Protoge 1999-2003
I’ve been helping my little sister do maintenance on her 2000 Mazda Protoge. For some reason she did not have the brace that allows you to tension the alternator belt properly. I didn’t know what it looked like or all the parts necessary to piece it together. Luckily I found a parts diagram for a Mazda Protoge for years 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003.
When I went to the dealer the part numbers didn’t match, but it was still helpful.
Rebuilding Rear Drum Brakes On A Jeep Wrangler YJ – Installation
This is the second part of the drum brake replacement. There is another post for the removal of the drum brakes. For the installation parts I didn’t want to mess around with getting individual springs and shoes so I purchased an overhaul kit. Because this is part of the < $880 project I’m listing the cost below:
| Rear Brake Overhaul Kit For Dana 35 | $119.90 |
| Shipping | 14.99 |
| Total | $134.89 |
Clean the backing plate with a brush or cloth.
Rear Brake Rebuild Kit
The kit I bought required me to press in the pin on the replacement shoe. Just look at the recently removed shoe to figure out which hole in the new shoe to press it in. Luckily I had a large vice to do this. Using a socket and the vice I put the pin in. I tried using a hammer but it didn’t work.
Aligning The Socket
Pressing In The Pin
I put the adjuster screw assembly and shoe spring to the new shoe.
Adjuster Screw Assembly and Shoe Spring
Install the parking brake strut and spring as your putting the the brake shoes on.
Parking Brake Strut and Spring
Put the brake shoes on the backing plate, and install in place using the hold down springs and pins.
Installing Hold Down Springs and Pins
Reinstall the parking brake actuating bar and the spring between the parking brake lever and primary shoe.
Parking Brake Actuating Bar
Install the self adjusting cable, cable guide and upper return springs.
Self Adjusting Cable Guide Bottom View
Installing Self Adjusting Cable With Pliers
Installing Upper Return Springs
Install the self adjusting cam and lowering spring with a pair of pliers.
Check the surface of the new shoes for any grease.
Install the drums.
Adjust the brakes by turning the star wheel outward till the brakes lock the drums. Back off the brakes until the drum spins free by holding the adjustment cam with a small screwdriver and turn the star wheel back.
Once the wheels are back on and both brakes are done, back the vehicle up several times to actuate the self adjusters.
Rebuilding Rear Drum Brakes On A Jeep Wrangler YJ – Removal
Remarkably I still had my original rear drum brakes from 1993 on my Jeep Wrangler. I figured the 15 year mark was the time to change them out. This is not a complete overhaul. I didn’t have to rebuild the wheel cylinders just replaced almost all the springs and brake shoes.
Jack up the vehicle and remove the tire being worked on.
Original Drum Brake
Remove the rear adjuster access plug on the rear drum backing plate and back off the star wheel. This allows the brakes to retract.
Rear Adjuster Plug
Accessing Rear Adjuster Plug
Turning Star Wheel
Remove the drum. There might be retaining spring nuts that have to come off, but mine didn’t have any.
Drum Removed
Old Drum Interior
Unhook and remove the return springs from the anchor pin.
Unhooking Return Springs
Removing Return Spring
Remove the adjuster cable from the anchor pin.
Removing Adjuster Cable
Remove the shoe plate guide.
Remove Shoe Plate Guide
Disconnect the adjuster tension spring from the adjuster lever.
Disconnecting The Adjuster Tension Spring
Remove the adjuster tension spring from the adjuster lever, and remove both from the brake shoe.
Removing Adjuster Tension Lever
Removing Spring From Shoe
Using a pair of needle nose pliers push in, turn and release the brake shoe hold down springs.
Positioning Pliers For Spring Removal
Push In And Turn To Release
Removing the hold down springs and pins allows for the removal of the shoes and adjuster screw assembly. The shoes and screw assembly will come off as one piece.
Hold Down Spring Pin Removed
Old Brake Shoes Removed