• roll a little more on turns
• bottom out on bumps
• Dive when braking
• Squat when accelerating
• Bounce or slide sideways on a winding or rough road

I was seeing some of these symptom on my 2000 Ford F-150 and decided it was time to change the shocks. In addition to that there are about 75,000 miles on the odometer.

According the the Motorist Assurance Program (MAP) original stock shocks and struts probable should be replaced at 50,000. Need more help understanding the function of your shocks? There are some links at the end of the article to help you.

I purchased some Rancho RS5000 shocks, RS5236 for the rears and RS5235 for the front. No matter what brand of shocks you’re purchasing, always use their website to find out what to purchase.

Rancho RS5000 Series Shock

Front Shock Replacement

Safety

Time for a bit of safety. By the way this doesn’t apply to people that think a car falling on them won’t hurt. Just make sure you get some video so you can be famous

Get yourself some jacks stands and use them! Don’t just count on that jack to hold the vehicle up. It takes an extra minute to set jack stands up. If you’re like me and working on a truck and Jeep, then purchasing jack stands made for SUVs and trucks makes sense.

Jack Stands for SUVs and Trucks

When using jack stands put them on the frame of the vehicle. You don’t see the second set of jack stands yet, but I use two. Better to be paranoid.

Jack Stands in Place

Old Shock Removal

Jack and remove the tire from one side of the front of the vehicle.

Old Shock Exposed

The shock is held in place in the front by two bolts on the lower control arm.

Lower Bracket Holding Old Shock

As well as one bolt on top.

Top Bolt for Old Shock

On the upper bolt of the old shock is a plastic tube guide that can be removed by pulling up on it. I ended up using a flat head screwdriver to pry it up.

Removing Clip from Upper Shock Bolt

To make things a little easy, spray some WD-40 or some other lubricant on all of the bolts and nuts.

Lubricating Old Shock Nuts

There are two sets of nuts, one on top and one below near the spring. Put a wrench on the nut near the spring to keep it in place while you remove the top one.

Removing Top Nut First

Remove the two nuts holding the lower section of the shock in place.

Removing Lower Nuts from Old Shock

The shock should drop down through the bottom if you’re lucky.

I was lucky with one shock. The other one expanded 100% once the bottom bolts were take off. I had a good time compressing the shock and trying to yank it through the bottom before it expanded again. It was an easy 10 minutes of cursing getting the old one out.

Tip: Need a little more room? Use the jack to slowly raise the control arm up some.

New Shock Installation

The new shock boot slips on and is zip tied in place.

Tip: Make sure all the rubber bushings are the correct ones when your shocks come. They will probably look like small tires. I waited about 6 months after purchasing to check mine. The wrong rubber bushing was shipped with one of my shocks.

Install Replacement Shock Boot

Slip the new shock through the bottom of the lower control arm.

Tighten the nuts on the lower half of the shock first.

Tightening Lower Nuts

Using a wrench to hold the second lower nut in place, tighten the nut on the top of the shock. This will compress the rubber bushing that is on the top and underneath the shock tower.

Tightening Upper Nut on New Shock

Go back over all the nuts and make sure they are tight.

Put the wheel back on the front and lower the vehicle.

Rear Shock Replacement

Old Shock Removal

Jack stands were used to support the frame and the one side of the rear axle that’s being worked on.

Supporting Frame and Axle

Lubricate all the bolts you are going to remove.

Similar to removing the front shock, start by removing the bolt on top of the rear shock.

Note: There is no room to maneuver your hands in this tight spot. It would make it easier if you have a deep socket and stubby ratchet. At least you wouldn’t be like me only moving the wrench 2 inches at a time

Removing Old Shock Upper Nut

Not So Deep Socket Tip: I didn’t have a deep socket for my ratchet, but after wrenching the nut a little I popped the socket a little from the ratchet and was able to rig a not so deep socket.

Ratcheting Nut the Rest of the Way

If your lucky enough you’ll have an impact wrench to remove the lower bolts. If not then make sure to use the longest wrenches you have to give you the most mechanical advantage.

Removing Lower Bolt from Old Shock

New Shock Installation

The dust boot goes on just like the front one and is secured with a zip tie.

When the rear shock goes in there will be a rubber bushing will go on top of the bracket and one will sit below.

New Shock Rubber Bushing Orientation

Start by putting the top part of the rear shock in place and putting the bolt in the lower bracket just to hold it in place. Don’t forget to put the rubber bushing on that sits below the upper bracket.

Tighten the top nut first. If you’re like me you’ll hand tighten it first, then finish off tightening it with an open ended or crescent wrench.

Note: I found that a wrench under the upper mounting bracket wasn’t necessary.

Hand Tightening New Shock Upper Nut

If you’re wondering how much you need to compress the rubber bushing, look at the old one that you just took off for reference.

Tightening Upper Nut

Finish off the new rear shock install by tightening the lower portion using two wrenches.

So, Hows the Ride?

The ride is much more even now. If I forget to slow down a bit for the dip or bump I don’t bottom out. I would suggest the Rancho RS5000 series if you are looking to replace your stock shocks. The ride is probably not as “soft” as the original shocks, but still provides a smooth ride and can take more of that Urban Off-Roading you probably do.

Additional Information:

• How to tell when your shocks need to be replaced – CNN article
• Shock Absorber and Strut Diagnosis
• Rancho’s Website

The guide includes:

• Original radio removal
• Wiring new radio using a wiring harness
• Wiring diagram
• Basic steps to installing the new radio

When removing the dash panel I found it was easier to get my fingers under the panel at the bottom near the climate controls.

Removing Front Dash Panel

Front Dash Panel Off

You’ll notice that the dash panel is not completely removed. There is no way I want to mess with anything associated with the airbags in the truck. It seemed perfectly fine to let it hang there.

Passenger Side Airbag Connection

I didn’t want to pay for the tool used to remove the factory radio so I tried the do it yourself version using a clothes hanger.

Cutting Wire To Make Removal Tool

Bending Wire To Make Removal Tool

Below I removed part of the factory radio face to show how I was missing the release mechanisms with my home made removal tool.

Removing Factory Radio Face

Misaligned Removal Tool

For the new radio installation you will only use one of the factory harnesses. Just tuck the other one out of the way.

Factory Radio Wiring Harness

I always use a wiring harness when installing a radio.

• The one I used for the F-150 was a Metra 70-1771 wiring kit.
• I prefer to solder my connections instead of using bullet connectors. I’ve had trouble in the past with bad crimps on the bullets.
• Make sure to wrap your soldered connections with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing
• [Thanks to my little sister for the Home Depot gift card I used to buy the new soldering iron and solder. By the way, the soldering iron kit had enough solder with it to do the install.]
• I used the wiring guide on the wiring kit package and the one that came with the new radio.
• The wire colors were the same for both harnesses

Metra Wiring Harness and Installation Tools

The new radio bracket should have mounting tabs that will hold it in the aftermarket dash installation kit.

• Make sure to use the tabs closest to the front
• The tabs have a wedge effect so make sure to push them in until they are tight
• I used a Metra 99-5804 Dash Kit

Removing New Radio Installation Bracket

Installing New Radio Mounting Bracket

My new radio has USB inputs on the front and back. To make the rear input accessible I ran a 7 foot USB extension cable down the driver’s side of the dash, and tucked it away. I plan on integrating that into the center console later.

Running USB Extension Cable

Running USB Extension Under Driver’s Side Dash

After connecting the wiring harness and USB port to the back of the new radio I secured the connections by

• Wrapping electrical tape around the USB extension connection
• Zip tying the factory wiring harness to the aftermarket wiring harness

Securing Wiring Harnesses With Zip Ties

The last snag I ran across was the screw holes on the dash kit lining up properly with the two top screw holes on the climate control assembly.

I used a heat source (otherwise known as a lighter) to warm the plastic just till it was malleable and aligned the screw holes.

Adjusting Dash Kit With Heat Source

I suggest making your adjustments outside of the vehicle and then try the fit. I didn’t make my adjustments this way, but I accept the consequences of my actions.

Then new radio looks and sounds great.

Finished Installation

From what it looks like AutoZone has put pieces of the Chilton Repair Manuals – Chilton Jeep Wrangler/YJ Repair Manual on their site. The down side is that you have to register with their site to get access to it. At least its out there.

When I went to the dealer the part numbers didn’t match, but it was still helpful.

Clean the backing plate with a brush or cloth.

Rear Brake Rebuild Kit

The kit I bought required me to press in the pin on the replacement shoe. Just look at the recently removed shoe to figure out which hole in the new shoe to press it in. Luckily I had a large vice to do this. Using a socket and the vice I put the pin in. I tried using a hammer but it didn’t work.

Aligning The Socket

Pressing In The Pin

I put the adjuster screw assembly and shoe spring to the new shoe.

Adjuster Screw Assembly and Shoe Spring

Install the parking brake strut and spring as your putting the the brake shoes on.

Parking Brake Strut and Spring

Put the brake shoes on the backing plate, and install in place using the hold down springs and pins.

Installing Hold Down Springs and Pins

Reinstall the parking brake actuating bar and the spring between the parking brake lever and primary shoe.

Parking Brake Actuating Bar

Install the self adjusting cable, cable guide and upper return springs.

Self Adjusting Cable Guide Bottom View

Installing Self Adjusting Cable With Pliers

Installing Upper Return Springs

I know there isn’t a self adjusting cable in the picture above. I messed up the first time around

Install the self adjusting cam and lowering spring with a pair of pliers.

Check the surface of the new shoes for any grease.

Install the drums.

Adjust the brakes by turning the star wheel outward till the brakes lock the drums. Back off the brakes until the drum spins free by holding the adjustment cam with a small screwdriver and turn the star wheel back.

Once the wheels are back on and both brakes are done, back the vehicle up several times to actuate the self adjusters.

Jack up the vehicle and remove the tire being worked on.

Original Drum Brake

Remove the rear adjuster access plug on the rear drum backing plate and back off the star wheel. This allows the brakes to retract.

Rear Adjuster Plug

Accessing Rear Adjuster Plug

Turning Star Wheel

Remove the drum. There might be retaining spring nuts that have to come off, but mine didn’t have any.

Drum Removed

Old Drum Interior

Unhook and remove the return springs from the anchor pin.

Unhooking Return Springs

Removing Return Spring

Remove the adjuster cable from the anchor pin.

Removing Adjuster Cable

Remove the shoe plate guide.

Remove Shoe Plate Guide

Disconnect the adjuster tension spring from the adjuster lever.

Disconnecting The Adjuster Tension Spring

Remove the adjuster tension spring from the adjuster lever, and remove both from the brake shoe.

Removing Adjuster Tension Lever

Removing Spring From Shoe

Using a pair of needle nose pliers push in, turn and release the brake shoe hold down springs.

Positioning Pliers For Spring Removal

Push In And Turn To Release

Removing the hold down springs and pins allows for the removal of the shoes and adjuster screw assembly. The shoes and screw assembly will come off as one piece.

Hold Down Spring Pin Removed

Old Brake Shoes Removed

The seats, particularly the driver’s seat, were ripped. The driver’s seat was also missing a lot of foam. Unfortunately there isn’t enough money in the $880 project budget to purchase new seats. The idea was to patch up the seats and cover them with an inexpensive seat cover. Here’s the cost breakdown:

First thing to do was clean the seats with some water to make sure the duct tape had a good surface to adhere to.

Cleaning Jeep Seats With Water

The first layer of tape was used to reinforce the area of the seat that got the most wear.

Layer Used To Reinforce The Seat




Finished First Layer

The second layer on the seat was applied 90 degrees to the first making sure to overlap on to the sides of the seat.

Second Layer Of Duct Tape

The real redneckidness comes when I had to fill in the missing foam from the driver’s seat. Only thing handy, and free, was an old towel. This was cut into varying sized strips and inserted where foam used to be. The duct tape was enough to hold it in place.

Redneck Foam Replacement Material

Lastly, a new set of cheap seat covers were installed. I can’t have my pants potentially sticking to the duct tape.

New Seat Covers




Installed Seat Covers

Hope everyone else had a good laugh ; )

New Muffler and Tailpipe

I wanted a little more room so I jacked up the side of the vehicle the tailpipe and muffler were on.

The nuts on the muffler and tailpipe clamp bolts were a little rusted on. A shot of WD40 and waiting for 5 minutes helped unlock the nuts a little.

WD40 Rusted Bolts and Nuts

Removing the tailpipe clamp near the tip of the tailpipe was pretty easy.

Removing Rear Tailpipe Bracket

Remove the clamp on the catalytic converter side of the muffler.

Removing Old Front Clamps

The other end of the tailpipe and muffler were welded together so there were no clamps to remove from there.

The tailpipe support near the muffler took a little more effort. A pair of channel locks allowed me to pinch the support in the middle to maneuver it out of the rubber holding pieces.

After disconnecting the hangers and clamps, I used a 4″ angle grinder to cut the old tailpipe from the muffler. Sorry no picture. There were too many sparks flying.

In order to more easily get the new tailpipe in place the passenger’s side of the vehicle was lowered and the driver’s side was raised.

Raising Driver’s Side Of Jeep

The expanded opening allows for plenty of room to maneuver the new tailpipe in place.

Expanded Opening For New Tailpipe

The new was put in place and attached to the hanging supports.

New Tailpipe In Place

Once the muffler and tailpipe were put in place and positioned the 2 1/4″ clamps were applied.

Clamped New Muffler

Clamped New Tailpipe

Lastly the tailpipe was attached to the rear hanging bracket.

Attached New Tailpipe To Rear Support

I purchased rear-view mirror adhesive from Ace Hardware when I was there last time. It is a two part adhesive with glue and hardener separate.

Rear-view Mirror Adhesive

It was easy to figure out where the mounting plate for the mirror was because of where the tint was cut out. Otherwise it would be necessary to outline where to attach the plate when gluing.

Original Mounting Plate Area

The old adhesive was scraped off with a razor, and the surface was cleaned with soapy water.

Scraping Old Adhesive

Once the area was dry, the hardener vial is snapped and applied with the felt portion.

Snapping Hardener Vial

Applying Hardener

Allow the hardener to dry for about 5 minutes. A drop of the adhesive is applied to the back of the mounting plate, and held against the glass for another 5 minutes.

Holding Mounting Plate

After waiting 15 minutes for the adhesive to dry, the rear view mirror is put on the mounting plate and tightened down.

Screwing Mirror On Mounting Plate

Complexity: 1

Estimated Time: 10 – 15 minutes

Tools Needed:

• T-30 Torx
• Flat Head Screwdriver

Installation:

• When the locking mechanism is unpacked everything needed for the installation is assembled in one piece.

  
  Unpacked Lock Mechanism and Instructions

• First thing to do is remove the bolts and washers from the unpacked lock assembly using a flat head screwdriver.

  
  Lock Assembly Preparation

• Unscrew the latch bolts using the T-30 torx screwdriver or bit.

  
  Latch Bolts

  
  Latch Bolts Removed

• Position the lock mechanism in place.

  
  Lock Placement Area In Front of the Radiator

  
  Placing the Hood Lock

  
  Holding Hood Lock In Place For Next Step

• Using the bolts and washers supplied with the kit, place the bolts with washers through the latch bolt holes and lightly tighten into the lock mechanism body. Note: The supplied bolts are slightly smaller than the latch bolt holes.

  
  Hood Lock Screw In The Latch Bolt Hole

• Adjust the locking mechanism by pushing it back and forth. The key is to not have the lock arm rub the latch, so it doesn’t wear off the rubber, but is firmly in place not allow movement in the latch.

  
  Adjusting The Hood Lock

• Once the adjustment if finished tighten the bolts down, and the job is finished.

  
  Installation Finished