• roll a little more on turns
• bottom out on bumps
• Dive when braking
• Squat when accelerating
• Bounce or slide sideways on a winding or rough road

I was seeing some of these symptom on my 2000 Ford F-150 and decided it was time to change the shocks. In addition to that there are about 75,000 miles on the odometer.

According the the Motorist Assurance Program (MAP) original stock shocks and struts probable should be replaced at 50,000. Need more help understanding the function of your shocks? There are some links at the end of the article to help you.

I purchased some Rancho RS5000 shocks, RS5236 for the rears and RS5235 for the front. No matter what brand of shocks you’re purchasing, always use their website to find out what to purchase.

Rancho RS5000 Series Shock

Front Shock Replacement

Safety

Time for a bit of safety. By the way this doesn’t apply to people that think a car falling on them won’t hurt. Just make sure you get some video so you can be famous

Get yourself some jacks stands and use them! Don’t just count on that jack to hold the vehicle up. It takes an extra minute to set jack stands up. If you’re like me and working on a truck and Jeep, then purchasing jack stands made for SUVs and trucks makes sense.

Jack Stands for SUVs and Trucks

When using jack stands put them on the frame of the vehicle. You don’t see the second set of jack stands yet, but I use two. Better to be paranoid.

Jack Stands in Place

Old Shock Removal

Jack and remove the tire from one side of the front of the vehicle.

Old Shock Exposed

The shock is held in place in the front by two bolts on the lower control arm.

Lower Bracket Holding Old Shock

As well as one bolt on top.

Top Bolt for Old Shock

On the upper bolt of the old shock is a plastic tube guide that can be removed by pulling up on it. I ended up using a flat head screwdriver to pry it up.

Removing Clip from Upper Shock Bolt

To make things a little easy, spray some WD-40 or some other lubricant on all of the bolts and nuts.

Lubricating Old Shock Nuts

There are two sets of nuts, one on top and one below near the spring. Put a wrench on the nut near the spring to keep it in place while you remove the top one.

Removing Top Nut First

Remove the two nuts holding the lower section of the shock in place.

Removing Lower Nuts from Old Shock

The shock should drop down through the bottom if you’re lucky.

I was lucky with one shock. The other one expanded 100% once the bottom bolts were take off. I had a good time compressing the shock and trying to yank it through the bottom before it expanded again. It was an easy 10 minutes of cursing getting the old one out.

Tip: Need a little more room? Use the jack to slowly raise the control arm up some.

New Shock Installation

The new shock boot slips on and is zip tied in place.

Tip: Make sure all the rubber bushings are the correct ones when your shocks come. They will probably look like small tires. I waited about 6 months after purchasing to check mine. The wrong rubber bushing was shipped with one of my shocks.

Install Replacement Shock Boot

Slip the new shock through the bottom of the lower control arm.

Tighten the nuts on the lower half of the shock first.

Tightening Lower Nuts

Using a wrench to hold the second lower nut in place, tighten the nut on the top of the shock. This will compress the rubber bushing that is on the top and underneath the shock tower.

Tightening Upper Nut on New Shock

Go back over all the nuts and make sure they are tight.

Put the wheel back on the front and lower the vehicle.

Rear Shock Replacement

Old Shock Removal

Jack stands were used to support the frame and the one side of the rear axle that’s being worked on.

Supporting Frame and Axle

Lubricate all the bolts you are going to remove.

Similar to removing the front shock, start by removing the bolt on top of the rear shock.

Note: There is no room to maneuver your hands in this tight spot. It would make it easier if you have a deep socket and stubby ratchet. At least you wouldn’t be like me only moving the wrench 2 inches at a time

Removing Old Shock Upper Nut

Not So Deep Socket Tip: I didn’t have a deep socket for my ratchet, but after wrenching the nut a little I popped the socket a little from the ratchet and was able to rig a not so deep socket.

Ratcheting Nut the Rest of the Way

If your lucky enough you’ll have an impact wrench to remove the lower bolts. If not then make sure to use the longest wrenches you have to give you the most mechanical advantage.

Removing Lower Bolt from Old Shock

New Shock Installation

The dust boot goes on just like the front one and is secured with a zip tie.

When the rear shock goes in there will be a rubber bushing will go on top of the bracket and one will sit below.

New Shock Rubber Bushing Orientation

Start by putting the top part of the rear shock in place and putting the bolt in the lower bracket just to hold it in place. Don’t forget to put the rubber bushing on that sits below the upper bracket.

Tighten the top nut first. If you’re like me you’ll hand tighten it first, then finish off tightening it with an open ended or crescent wrench.

Note: I found that a wrench under the upper mounting bracket wasn’t necessary.

Hand Tightening New Shock Upper Nut

If you’re wondering how much you need to compress the rubber bushing, look at the old one that you just took off for reference.

Tightening Upper Nut

Finish off the new rear shock install by tightening the lower portion using two wrenches.

So, Hows the Ride?

The ride is much more even now. If I forget to slow down a bit for the dip or bump I don’t bottom out. I would suggest the Rancho RS5000 series if you are looking to replace your stock shocks. The ride is probably not as “soft” as the original shocks, but still provides a smooth ride and can take more of that Urban Off-Roading you probably do.

Additional Information:

• How to tell when your shocks need to be replaced – CNN article
• Shock Absorber and Strut Diagnosis
• Rancho’s Website

The guide includes:

• Original radio removal
• Wiring new radio using a wiring harness
• Wiring diagram
• Basic steps to installing the new radio

When removing the dash panel I found it was easier to get my fingers under the panel at the bottom near the climate controls.

Removing Front Dash Panel

Front Dash Panel Off

You’ll notice that the dash panel is not completely removed. There is no way I want to mess with anything associated with the airbags in the truck. It seemed perfectly fine to let it hang there.

Passenger Side Airbag Connection

I didn’t want to pay for the tool used to remove the factory radio so I tried the do it yourself version using a clothes hanger.

Cutting Wire To Make Removal Tool

Bending Wire To Make Removal Tool

Below I removed part of the factory radio face to show how I was missing the release mechanisms with my home made removal tool.

Removing Factory Radio Face

Misaligned Removal Tool

For the new radio installation you will only use one of the factory harnesses. Just tuck the other one out of the way.

Factory Radio Wiring Harness

I always use a wiring harness when installing a radio.

• The one I used for the F-150 was a Metra 70-1771 wiring kit.
• I prefer to solder my connections instead of using bullet connectors. I’ve had trouble in the past with bad crimps on the bullets.
• Make sure to wrap your soldered connections with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing
• [Thanks to my little sister for the Home Depot gift card I used to buy the new soldering iron and solder. By the way, the soldering iron kit had enough solder with it to do the install.]
• I used the wiring guide on the wiring kit package and the one that came with the new radio.
• The wire colors were the same for both harnesses

Metra Wiring Harness and Installation Tools

The new radio bracket should have mounting tabs that will hold it in the aftermarket dash installation kit.

• Make sure to use the tabs closest to the front
• The tabs have a wedge effect so make sure to push them in until they are tight
• I used a Metra 99-5804 Dash Kit

Removing New Radio Installation Bracket

Installing New Radio Mounting Bracket

My new radio has USB inputs on the front and back. To make the rear input accessible I ran a 7 foot USB extension cable down the driver’s side of the dash, and tucked it away. I plan on integrating that into the center console later.

Running USB Extension Cable

Running USB Extension Under Driver’s Side Dash

After connecting the wiring harness and USB port to the back of the new radio I secured the connections by

• Wrapping electrical tape around the USB extension connection
• Zip tying the factory wiring harness to the aftermarket wiring harness

Securing Wiring Harnesses With Zip Ties

The last snag I ran across was the screw holes on the dash kit lining up properly with the two top screw holes on the climate control assembly.

I used a heat source (otherwise known as a lighter) to warm the plastic just till it was malleable and aligned the screw holes.

Adjusting Dash Kit With Heat Source

I suggest making your adjustments outside of the vehicle and then try the fit. I didn’t make my adjustments this way, but I accept the consequences of my actions.

Then new radio looks and sounds great.

Finished Installation